How Fashion Photography Changed the Underwear Industry

People used to treat underwear much as we now treat going to the toilet – everyone knows it’s necessary, but it’s rarely discussed (or even acknowledged) except in medical contexts or as the punchline to a joke. For much of the early 20th century, brands sold functional, generic bras, slips, girdles, and briefs through practical catalogue images or discreet department store displays. Now, however, that’s all changed. While we may still be a little giggly about our underwear, nobody is scandalised to see a model in a bra splashed across a huge billboard, and we have open conversations about things like fit, health, silhouette, and so on. So what changed? Well, photography had quite a lot to do with the transformation, both of attitudes and of underwear itself.

a measuring tape on a woman s waist
Photo by Polina Tankilevitch on Pexels.com

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How Things Used To Be

Early images of underwear were usually stiff, cautious, functional, and as discreet as possible – reflecting the attitudes of the time. However, as photography developed as an art and fashion magazines became more visually ambitious, editors and photographers sought new ways to create interesting shapes, poses, and angles. However, functional, restrictive underwear was no good for sculpting the human body into visually interesting shapes. It limited movement, created bulges and dents where photographers wanted smooth lines, and obstructed innovative dress cuts with straps, buckles, and so on. So, to get the kind of effect that photographers and designers wanted, underwear brands began experimenting with shapewear, less restrictive styles, and cuts that showed more skin.

Of course, these new styles had to be commercially viable as well as good for photographers – which meant that they needed to be photographed in their own right as well as underneath clothing. So, lingerie began appearing in editorials that emphasised mood as much as utility. Instead of showing garments only as support pieces, photographers presented them as part of a lifestyle. A lace bra, silk slip, or high-waisted brief could suggest elegance, confidence, seduction, or independence. This shift was initially scandalous for some, but it was also incredibly popular. Consumers wanted to enjoy wearing underwear. They wanted underwear that was comfortable as well as functional, that let them move as they wanted, and that allowed for a wider range of styles – lower cuts and strappy sleeves, for example – that weren’t limited by bra fabric.

From Utility to Desire

The camera gave underwear emotional value, and made it aspirational as well as functional. A product that might have seemed quite ordinary on a hanger could become glamorous through a carefully composed image. Soft focus, dramatic shadows, and elegant studio sets turned intimate garments into objects of fantasy and desire. This was important commercially, because it gave people more reasons to buy than simple necessity. Customers were no longer shopping only for support beneath their outerwear; they were also buying a feeling.

Fashion photography also helped brands to create distinct personalities. Some labels used clean, minimalist images to suggest modernity and ease. Others relied on highly stylised shoots to communicate luxury, romance, or boldness. Over time, visual branding became almost as important as the garments themselves. A recognisable photographic style could make a company really stand out in a crowded market.

The Rise of the Supermodel Era

In the 1980s and 1990s, fashion photography pushed underwear into mainstream pop culture. Supermodels appeared in campaigns that were confident, athletic, and highly polished. These images were not hidden in niche catalogues; they appeared on huge billboards, in glossy magazines, and across television advertising all over the world. Underwear campaigns from brands like Victoria’s Secret became cultural events, and the models who appeared in them often became household names.

This era changed the scale of the industry. Underwear was no longer simply an add-on purchase in a department store – it was a major fashion category in its own right, with seasonal campaigns, celebrity faces, and global marketing strategies. Photography played a key role by making intimate apparel feel bold, public, and iconic.

While this revolution mainly focused on female lingerie, men weren’t totally left out. Celebrities like David Beckham made boxer brands like Calvin Klein iconic with sultry monochrome fashion shoots, and many men found themselves thinking more seriously about their underpants.

Changing Beauty Standards

Fashion photography also shaped the body ideals associated with underwear. For decades, many campaigns promoted very narrow definitions of beauty: excessively slim bodies and youthful – typically caucasian – features. These images influenced consumer expectations and affected how people saw themselves. The underwear industry benefited from the glamour, but it also faced criticism for presenting unrealistic standards. Underwear shots in particular often lingered on jutting hip bones and hollow ribcages – and that’s a troubling legacy that the industry will struggle with for some time.

That being said, photography has gradually become more inclusive. Modern campaigns often feature a wider range of body types, skin tones, ages, gender expressions, and abilities. Instead of hiding differences, many photographers now highlight them. This shift has changed the market by making authenticity a selling point. Consumers increasingly want to see images that feel relatable as well as beautiful.

Digital Media and Everyday Confidence

Social media transformed fashion photography again. Brands no longer rely only on studio campaigns or magazine spreads. They now use behind-the-scenes images, influencer collaborations, customer photos, and short-form video to sell underwear. The result is a more immediate and personal visual language.

This digital shift has made the industry more responsive. If consumers dislike overly retouched images, brands hear about it quickly. If a campaign feels empowering, on the other hand, it can spread globally within hours. Photography has become a conversation rather than a one-way message.

A New Role for Underwear

Today, fashion photography continues to redefine what underwear means. It can represent comfort, self-expression, sensuality, athleticism, luxury, or everyday ease. The best images do more than display fabric and fit; they tell viewers who they might become when they wear the garment.

By transforming underwear from a private basic into a visible fashion statement, photography helped build one of the most influential categories in apparel. It changed how brands sell, how consumers shop, and how culture talks about the body. In many ways, the underwear industry became modern because the camera taught it how to be seen.


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