Where does Ireland begin? Before encountering the breathtaking views of the Wild Atlantic Way, the squat horses of Connemara Park, the dramatic Cliffs of Moher and the mysterious gardens of Blarney Castle, travellers arrive in the capital of the evergreen state – Dublin. This is a city with its own special mood. There, the literary heritage of Oscar Wilde and James Joyce is combined with the endless revelry of Temple Bar Street and pubs serving Guinness beer and the best Irish whiskey.
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Cultural Dublin
The centre of Dublin’s cultural life is the famous university Trinity College. Jonathan Swift, Samuel Beckett, and Oscar Wilde studied there. It’s worth a visit to see the magnificent architecture of the university buildings. The atmosphere of Trinity is not inferior to famous university towns like Oxford or Cambridge. There is also a luxurious library with dark wooden vaults. There, the legendary Book of Kells, created by Irish monks in 800 AD, is displayed.
By the way, this is not the only amazing library in Dublin. You can also visit the National Library of Ireland, founded in 1877. It houses documents and materials on the country’s history. Opposite, in a similar building, is the National Museum of Ireland, which houses collections of ancient Celtic artefacts. Entrance to the library and museum is free.
The Marche Library still retains its late Renaissance and early Enlightenment interiors. It was opened in 1707 and became the first library on the island that could be visited by everyone, not just representatives of the church and academic classes. The collection contains 25 thousand books and 300 manuscripts, and the main collection dates back to the 16th–18th centuries.
Literature lovers usually visit the Victorian pharmacy Sweny’s from the pages of the novel Ulysses: it is where Poldie Bloom buys lemon soap. Today, it is owned by the brilliant intellectual and polyglot PJ Murphy, who happily shows visitors various editions and translations of the famous novel and, in the right mood, even performs songs in Gaelic with a guitar. Opposite the pharmacy is Kennedy’s Bar, where Oscar Wilde sometimes came to work (at the time of the writer it was called “Cowboy” – and, by the way, was also mentioned in “Ulysses”). A couple of steps away is Wilde’s house in Merrion Square, from the windows of which one can see the famous statue of the writer.
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Irish Nature
To get acquainted with the diverse Irish nature, you don’t have to leave the city but head straight to the famous Phoenix Park. This is one of the largest urban public parks in the world (it is twice the size of Central Park in New York, its territory covers 707 hectares). 350 years ago, Duke of Ormond James Butler established royal hunting grounds in Phoenix Park, to which he brought several deer from neighbouring Great Britain. Today, more than 600 individuals live in the park. Finding them can sometimes be difficult; it is better to ask passers-by if they have seen deer, and if they have, where exactly. Also in the park are the 15th-century Ashtown Castle, Dublin Zoo and a garden with a lake where grey herons nest. You can get to Phoenix Park from Dublin city centre by bus number 37 (you need to stop at Castleknock Gate). It will take about one and a half to two hours to go around the park completely – however, you can come here for the whole day, taking with you everything you need for a picnic and apples for the deer.
Haunted Castle
Historians and local historians claim that there are about 30 thousand castles in Irish territories. Some of them have been preserved almost perfectly or have been restored, others are in a state of ruins. One of the most famous castles in the country, Malahide, is located just outside Dublin, and you can get there in half an hour by Irish Rail and DART trains or bus number 42.
The estate was founded in 1185 by knight Richard Talbot, who was given the land and harbour of Malahide by accompanying King Henry II to Ireland. The Talbot family owned the property for about 800 years; Malahide was even called the last inhabited castle in the country. It was not until 1975 that Rose, sister of the 7th Baron Talbot, sold the castle to the state to pay off inheritance taxes.
There are many stories and legends associated with this castle. The most popular of them is about the ghost of a jester named Puck, who was a dwarf, but at the same time had a reputation as an educated, punctual and very courteous person.
Best Restaurants and Pubs
Stereotypes claim that Irish cuisine, like British cuisine, is nothing outstanding. It is, of course, devoid of grace, but it deserves attention and is replete with truly tasty and satisfying dishes.
Be sure to try:
- Seafood chowder is a creamy soup with various types of seafood.
- Stew is an Irish stew of lamb, potatoes and carrots, often prepared with dark beer.
- Colcannon – mashed potatoes with cabbage.
- Boxties are potato pancakes or pancakes.
- Krubins is a boiled, salted pork leg.
To taste alcoholic drinks, head to the Temple Bar quarter: there are many cafes, bars, pubs and restaurants for every taste and budget. A great option is a pint of Guinness and shepherd’s pie at the Old Mill Restaurant. We recommend spending the evening in the Peruke & Periwig bar, stylized in the Victorian era, with portraits in massive frames, busts in wonderful wigs and luxurious sofas. The most spectacular presentation here is the Thriller cocktail – the bartender sets it on fire right before your eyes. Another interesting drinking establishment is the historic Victorian “liquor house” The Long Hall.
To drink the famous Guinness, go to the Open Gate Brewery, an experimental brewery at the Guinness factory, where you can try variations of the dark stout that are not available to regular pub visitors (for example, a collaboration with the Belgian cherry Timmerman). But whiskey fans are always welcome at tastings at the Irish Whiskey Museum.
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